So today I booked another tour. It was OK, but stupid me -- I left my camera on the bed back in my room. There was, however, an Italian couple on the trip who took many, many pictures. If nothing got lost in translation, I should receive some photos via email that I will post later. And Ornella -- these folks are going to San Francisco soon and don't speak a word of English. I gave them both of our phone numbers, just in case.
Anyway, this was called the "rainforest" tour. We started out at a mineral hotspring waterfall, with plenty of pools to soak yourself in. The water was a little cooler than usual because of a major rainstorm last night, but it was about bathtub water warm. They say that there's healing powers in the water due to the mineral content, so I soaked as long as they would let me. I really need the scrapes and bug bites on my legs to heal.
Afterwards we drove to Sra Morakot to the "emerald pool". This was a beautiful pool about 1000 meters deep in the rainforest. As we hiked in, we passed lots of butterflies, chestnuts that had dropped on the ground, flowers, and very green pools with lots of moss growing on the bottom. The sounds were incredible -- I never knew the forest could be so loud. If I only had my camera, I would have taken a bit of video for you all to hear. We finally came across the pool, which is a fairly large pool with beautiful emerald colored water. It varies from 1-2 meters deep, so swimming was good. Water runs in at one end over some rocks and runs out over some rocks at the other end. About half of the people there were Thais families out for a day trip. Read this for more information as well as some photos (I just found it and it will have to do until I hear from my Italian friends). Back at the van, a family served us lunch while we chatted. Unfortunately, the group consisted of 2 Italians, 2 Germans, a Japanese family with 1 kid, and an Israeli family with 2 kids. Only the Israeli father spoke any English, so for the first time, I really didn't talk with anyone very much.
When we finished eating, the guide walked us over to the edge of a rubber tree plantation and quickly showed us how they tap the tree for rubber. I was surprised to hear that rubber production is the #1 industry in the Krabi province. Palm oil production is #2, followed by fishing and then tourism. Various food productions (rice, pineapple, banana, etc.) round out the top 10. I'm so glad it's not just tourism here!
We then went to Wat Tham Suea, or the Tiger Cave Temple. This was my entire reason for taking this trip. This place is a real working Buddhist monastery and a center for meditation. Monks were everywhere and there were several temples at the ground level. There's also a 1200 step climb to the top of a mountain, where there is another temple and a view overlooking Krabi. My knee has been holding up surprisingly well, so I really wanted to go up. Unfortunately, the guide wouldn't let me. Apparently, there wasn't enough time. He suggested that I stay and they'd come back for me later and charge me an extra 1000B. That's the cost of my room! Well, I refused and was very disappointed. But I did see the cave where he claimed the tiger used to be (but that is apparently just an old wives tale for tourists) as well as lots and lots of monks and monkeys. The monkeys there are far more aggressive than those I saw on Tuesday. The poor fools who bought bananas had monkeys climbing all over them. I also saw one try to steal a camera. Did I mention that I'm so over monkeys?
When I returned to Ao Nang, I went to talk to the travel desk that booked me on the tour. Weerawan (that's her name) wasn't too happy. She's offered to arrange a cab for me to go back out there and do the climb. Depending on the weather, I'll go either tomorrow or Saturday. I WON'T FORGET MY CAMERA! And of course, I'll go back to see my elephants again before I leave (don't you just love how I own them now?).
But here's the question: should I do a day at the Thai Cooking Academy? I might have to 'cause I just don't know how I'll get along without my pad thai ...
Thursday, August 7, 2008
Wednesday, August 6, 2008
Transition Day
This morning I left Railay Beach. It was almost as much of an ordeal as my arrival. Tide was low (good), but I had to get my heavy bag across a lot of sand to get to the path across the peninsula so that I could catch the longtail back to Ao Nang. Once again, I had to wade out into the water with my bags and get them into the boat without getting anything wet. It's not an easy task. Worse yet is climbing into the boat when it's pitching in the waves. I have to admit that I have a few cuts and scrapes on my ankles from doing this so often over the past week. Oh, and arriving is almost worse. You jump into the water and then half climb back in to get your stuff. Anyway, I arrived.
So I decided to go back to Ao Nang Beach Home, which is the place that I stayed at when I first arrived in the Krabi area. While in town, it's down a long alley from the main street and very quiet. I literally go out my sliding door, step onto the path and in about 30 yards I'm walking down the stairs to the beach. The rooms are very big and beautiful, it only costs 1,000B/night, and I have free, unlimited wifi access from my room. This is not only the cheapest place that I've stayed, but the nicest and I'm not paying for internet access any more. Giant plus!
Basically, today was all about getting some things taken care of: laundry, planning the rest of my excursions, and working on itinerary, train tickets and hotel rooms for India. I had a wonderful dinner at the Beach Home's restaurant on the deck overlooking the beach. The sunset was gorgeous and the food, as always, was fantastic. They were so happy that I've come back (and sent some fellow travelers their way), that they brought me a free appetizer and beer. Gotta love that!
I've got some inland stuff planned for tomorrow, so stay tuned.
So I decided to go back to Ao Nang Beach Home, which is the place that I stayed at when I first arrived in the Krabi area. While in town, it's down a long alley from the main street and very quiet. I literally go out my sliding door, step onto the path and in about 30 yards I'm walking down the stairs to the beach. The rooms are very big and beautiful, it only costs 1,000B/night, and I have free, unlimited wifi access from my room. This is not only the cheapest place that I've stayed, but the nicest and I'm not paying for internet access any more. Giant plus!
Basically, today was all about getting some things taken care of: laundry, planning the rest of my excursions, and working on itinerary, train tickets and hotel rooms for India. I had a wonderful dinner at the Beach Home's restaurant on the deck overlooking the beach. The sunset was gorgeous and the food, as always, was fantastic. They were so happy that I've come back (and sent some fellow travelers their way), that they brought me a free appetizer and beer. Gotta love that!
I've got some inland stuff planned for tomorrow, so stay tuned.
Tuesday, August 5, 2008
A Long Day
So today I did my big tour. At 8:00am, I caught a longtail to the Krabi Pier. From there I travelled in a van with 7 Brits to Phang Nga Bay National Park. It took us 2 hours to get there, driving north on inland roads. We travelled through many villages, a few small towns, and past many (and I mean many) plantations. We passed plantations growing bananas, pineapples, mangos, rubber trees and who knows what else. They went on forever and I couldn’t even begin to count the all.
We did make one stop along the way – it was a gas station with bathroom and Muslim women cooking food on the side of the road to sell. Think of it as a Thai truck stop. It was quite a site, it was pouring rain and I didn’t want to get the camera wet. But after about 2 hours of driving, we arrived at a Muslim village where we boarded our longtail and headed out to the islands. It was still raining, but only for about another 15 minutes. The rest of the day was gorgeous.
We started on a river lined by mangroves. It was about a mile wide and only got wider as we headed to sea. We passed a mountain that they call both Camel Mountain and Magoo Mountain, depending on who you talk to. As we opened up in to the bay, the view was breathtaking. Islands were everywhere and its just as beautiful as all the pictures I’ve seen.
Our first stop was Tam Lod limestone cave on Kho Majoo. Basically, we just passed through the cave from one side of the island to the other. Nothing all the spectacular, but there were self-proclaimed “ecotour” boats there with the tourists kayaking around.
We soon passed Kho Panyee. It is a floating village with about 2000 inhabitants. It was founded by Muslim immigrants from Indonesia bout 200 years ago and still going strong. The mosque rises up above the town and a few restaurants line the docks at one end of the island. The inhabitants are mostly fisherman who sell their catch on the mainland.
Then we arrived at Kho Tapoo. It’s more commonly known as “James Bond Island” because The Man with the Golden Gun” had some scenes filmed here a million or so years ago. Our guide also claims that some of the second Pirates of the Caribbean movie was filmed here as well – I’ll have to rewatch that movie to find out. I’m pretty sceptical. Anyway, it’s a pretty little island with too many people scampering about. And some women from Kho Panyee have set up shop hocking food, jewelry, t-shirts, and anything else they think people will buy. We had a half an hour to wander around, so I did. There’s pictures, but this really wasn’t the highlight of my day.
We then returned to Kho Panyee to have lunch in one of those restaurants. I covered up with a long sleeved shirt and zipped those pant legs onto my safari shorts because I didn’t want to offend anyone and I got some nice comments from the people in the restaurant. Funny how little things go a long way. Anyhoo, they were ready for us and served us a set family style fare. Everything was amazing, from the soup, to the shrimp, to the seafood stir fry to the veggies. I’d go back in a second, just to eat. Afterwards, I set off meandering the village. It really is mostly floating except for the end near the mosque. Everything is crambed together and you can see the water through the planks under your feet. I eventually found the cemetary and the mosque. The call to prayer was on the loudspeakers and the men were all heading my direction. I could look right inside the mosque and see them facing Mecca praying. I decided not to take a picture – it just didn’t seem right to invade their privacy that way. I walked on and got a little lost. I passed the school, many homes, the grocery store and finally found my way back. We then took the boat back to where we first boarded and got back on the bus.
Our next stop was Wat Suwankuha (also known as the Monkey Cave Temple). There are monkeys everywhere, I have to admit. But when you go inside, the thing that catches your eye is the giant reclining Budha. There’s Budha’s all over the place, but the giant reclinging one catches your eye. There’s also a tomb with the ashes of members of the family that built this temple 200 years ago, a monk accepting offerings, bats on the ceilings and yes, lots and lots of monkeys. I had gone up some stairs to another cave of the temple and was heading back down when a monkey stopped me at the top of the stairs. He walked right up to within a foot of me, looked me right in the eye, and kept motioning with his hand – he kept raising it to his mouth. The SOB was begging for food. I walked on by and back to the main entrance. More monkeys, including mothers with babies, were all looking at me as I went by. Sucker that I am, a bought 2 bunches of bananas from the lady with the food stand. I tucked one batch under my left elbow and started handing out bananas to the monkeys. They come right up and take them gently out of your hand. Of course, as I’m doing it the big SOB from upstairs had come down. He came from behind, jumped up, and stole the bunch from under my elbow. He then ran up a cliff, stashed them, and then came back and begged for more. No wonder he was the biggest monkey there. The Brits kept saying "cheeky monkey" which brought Mike Meyers on SNL flashbacks. Anyway, I think I’m monkeyed out now.
Our last stop of the day was Manora Waterfall. It’s a long fall that meanders down a hillside for 4 km. There’s a pool, then small drop, then another pool, etc. We walked up a ways to one of the nicer pools and started in. The pools were full or tiger fish. Though it doesn’t hurt, they come up and suck on your skin. Needless to say, no one stayed in the water for long.
After our 2 hour drive back, I caught another longtail back to Railay Beach. I’ve showered and am heading to dinner. I’ll be leaving Railay tomorrow, but I haven’t quite decided where I’m going next. If I don’t figure anything else, I’ll head back to Ao Nang and figure it out.
Only 1 more week left in Thailand. I’m already starting to get sad.
We did make one stop along the way – it was a gas station with bathroom and Muslim women cooking food on the side of the road to sell. Think of it as a Thai truck stop. It was quite a site, it was pouring rain and I didn’t want to get the camera wet. But after about 2 hours of driving, we arrived at a Muslim village where we boarded our longtail and headed out to the islands. It was still raining, but only for about another 15 minutes. The rest of the day was gorgeous.
We started on a river lined by mangroves. It was about a mile wide and only got wider as we headed to sea. We passed a mountain that they call both Camel Mountain and Magoo Mountain, depending on who you talk to. As we opened up in to the bay, the view was breathtaking. Islands were everywhere and its just as beautiful as all the pictures I’ve seen.
Our first stop was Tam Lod limestone cave on Kho Majoo. Basically, we just passed through the cave from one side of the island to the other. Nothing all the spectacular, but there were self-proclaimed “ecotour” boats there with the tourists kayaking around.
We soon passed Kho Panyee. It is a floating village with about 2000 inhabitants. It was founded by Muslim immigrants from Indonesia bout 200 years ago and still going strong. The mosque rises up above the town and a few restaurants line the docks at one end of the island. The inhabitants are mostly fisherman who sell their catch on the mainland.
Then we arrived at Kho Tapoo. It’s more commonly known as “James Bond Island” because The Man with the Golden Gun” had some scenes filmed here a million or so years ago. Our guide also claims that some of the second Pirates of the Caribbean movie was filmed here as well – I’ll have to rewatch that movie to find out. I’m pretty sceptical. Anyway, it’s a pretty little island with too many people scampering about. And some women from Kho Panyee have set up shop hocking food, jewelry, t-shirts, and anything else they think people will buy. We had a half an hour to wander around, so I did. There’s pictures, but this really wasn’t the highlight of my day.
We then returned to Kho Panyee to have lunch in one of those restaurants. I covered up with a long sleeved shirt and zipped those pant legs onto my safari shorts because I didn’t want to offend anyone and I got some nice comments from the people in the restaurant. Funny how little things go a long way. Anyhoo, they were ready for us and served us a set family style fare. Everything was amazing, from the soup, to the shrimp, to the seafood stir fry to the veggies. I’d go back in a second, just to eat. Afterwards, I set off meandering the village. It really is mostly floating except for the end near the mosque. Everything is crambed together and you can see the water through the planks under your feet. I eventually found the cemetary and the mosque. The call to prayer was on the loudspeakers and the men were all heading my direction. I could look right inside the mosque and see them facing Mecca praying. I decided not to take a picture – it just didn’t seem right to invade their privacy that way. I walked on and got a little lost. I passed the school, many homes, the grocery store and finally found my way back. We then took the boat back to where we first boarded and got back on the bus.
Our next stop was Wat Suwankuha (also known as the Monkey Cave Temple). There are monkeys everywhere, I have to admit. But when you go inside, the thing that catches your eye is the giant reclining Budha. There’s Budha’s all over the place, but the giant reclinging one catches your eye. There’s also a tomb with the ashes of members of the family that built this temple 200 years ago, a monk accepting offerings, bats on the ceilings and yes, lots and lots of monkeys. I had gone up some stairs to another cave of the temple and was heading back down when a monkey stopped me at the top of the stairs. He walked right up to within a foot of me, looked me right in the eye, and kept motioning with his hand – he kept raising it to his mouth. The SOB was begging for food. I walked on by and back to the main entrance. More monkeys, including mothers with babies, were all looking at me as I went by. Sucker that I am, a bought 2 bunches of bananas from the lady with the food stand. I tucked one batch under my left elbow and started handing out bananas to the monkeys. They come right up and take them gently out of your hand. Of course, as I’m doing it the big SOB from upstairs had come down. He came from behind, jumped up, and stole the bunch from under my elbow. He then ran up a cliff, stashed them, and then came back and begged for more. No wonder he was the biggest monkey there. The Brits kept saying "cheeky monkey" which brought Mike Meyers on SNL flashbacks. Anyway, I think I’m monkeyed out now.
Our last stop of the day was Manora Waterfall. It’s a long fall that meanders down a hillside for 4 km. There’s a pool, then small drop, then another pool, etc. We walked up a ways to one of the nicer pools and started in. The pools were full or tiger fish. Though it doesn’t hurt, they come up and suck on your skin. Needless to say, no one stayed in the water for long.
After our 2 hour drive back, I caught another longtail back to Railay Beach. I’ve showered and am heading to dinner. I’ll be leaving Railay tomorrow, but I haven’t quite decided where I’m going next. If I don’t figure anything else, I’ll head back to Ao Nang and figure it out.
Only 1 more week left in Thailand. I’m already starting to get sad.
Monday, August 4, 2008
What a Difference a Day Makes
While yesterday was wet and miserable, today is clear and beautiful. This is a fairly small place, so easy to scope out in a few hours. I am going to stay an extra night, though, ‘cause I booked me a day long excursion tomorrow. I’ll write all about it when I get back. The following day I’ll leave, but I’m still trying to decide to where. My plane doesn’t leave until the 12th, so I still have some time in this country.
After a wonderful fruit breakfast at the hotel’s restaurant overlooking the water, I set off to meander. My first stop were the caves that I passed yesterday. They’re phenomenal. It didn’t take long to realize that there’s caves everywhere around here and that I shouldn’t have paid 40B (about $1.25) to go in the big one. Anyway, I eventually found my way down a path to another beach. This one was beautiful as expected. But as I was standing there taking pictures, I heard a noise right above me. I looked up and there I saw my first monkey. Then looking around I saw many more. They were all over the trees as well as climbing the cliffs. I smiled from ear to ear and the one near me showed all of his teeth. Missed the picture, though.
On my way back, I saw it: the path up to the viewpoint and lagoon. It’s only 300 meters up, not quite verticle, with a rope to help pull yourself up and keep you from falling coming down. I thought about it, I really did. And I even started up part way. But between my knee and my flip flops, it just wasn’t going to happen. I met some 20 somethings who were comiing down and they didn’t make it up either. Somehow I don’t feel so bad, but I would love to see it. The few people that I’ve met that made it say it’s absolutely beautiful. Oh well.
Now I’m just lounging around the pool, browsing the web and reading. After all these days of salt water, fresh water feels really good.
More tomorrow …
Sunday, August 3, 2008
Railay Beach
So yesterday was a bit of a nightmare. After being rushed onto the ferry to Krabi, things just got worse – mostly because of the weather. Now realize that I’m here during the “rainy” season. So far, this has meant a short rain storm a day, usually at night and some cloudy days. Not a single storm has effected my plans and the clouds have been a nice respite from the hot sun. Yesterday was the exception.
When I left Phi Phi, it was partially cloudy. On the ferry over, there were moments of searing sun that was way too hot. But as we arrived at the pier, I saw some big black clouds coming our direction. The guy at the accommodations desk at the pier wasn’t really listening to me. I told him that I was interested in coming to Railay, but if it meant getting into a longtail, I’d rather go somewhere else until the weather was better. He just wouldn’t listen. Before I knew it, he had booked me at Railay View Point Resort. I said that I wanted to stay in Ao Nang because of the weather and go to Railay tomorrow, but it was already too late. So I got put in a cab and taken to Ao Nang to catch a longtail. I asked if we could leave immediately (the clouds were much closer), but I waited on the beach for about 30 minutes. Just as we boarded the longtail (and note that you have to wade out and then climb over the side to get in), it started raining. They threw my big bag up front. I went forward to put the tarp over the bag, since the waves were kicking up, but they took the tarp off. By the time we got to Railay, it was pouring. Torrentially.
They tossed my big bag on shore and took off without telling me where to go. I asked around and found out that I was dropped off on the wrong beach. Yep. At high tide, the only way to get from west to east Railay is to either take a boat, or walk up and over a path that goes up , up, up, past some caves and then down, down, down. About 20 minutes when dragging a bag. Some of the path is not paved, which makes it all harder. After two wrong turns and meandering through a little village of locals, I finally found it. I was drenched from head to toe and both of my bags (a Timbuk2 bike messenger bag and my large duffle on wheels) were toally soaked. All of us were covered in sand. It sucked. But, I have to say, this place is beautiful. I’m in a gorgeous bungalow up the hill overlooking the bay and the swimming pool. There’s lots of good restaurants, just the right amount of bars, small markets and lots of rock climbing shops. It’s still touristy, but much less so than any place else I’ve been. We are surrounded by cliffs and caves and climbing is very popular here. In fact, they had a couple of cliffs illuminated last night for climbing. It was beautiful to watch from a balcony restaurant.
I stayed low yesterday, de-sanding, drying off, getting laundry done, catching up on the net, and napping. Today, I’m going to explore some caves and try to extend my stay another night (otherwise tonight would be my last here). Since I lost most of yesteray, I want another day to check everything out and decide where to go next.
By the way, worry not. The bombings in the “tourist” areas of Thailand were down in the deep south near Malaysia. It’s heavily Muslim down there and violence is not uncommon. I’m nowhere near that area. Even if I were, all bombings took place at 7/11s and I don’t go to those. Oh, and an added note – Railay is the first place I’ve been with no 7/11s. Finally!
Pictures later.
When I left Phi Phi, it was partially cloudy. On the ferry over, there were moments of searing sun that was way too hot. But as we arrived at the pier, I saw some big black clouds coming our direction. The guy at the accommodations desk at the pier wasn’t really listening to me. I told him that I was interested in coming to Railay, but if it meant getting into a longtail, I’d rather go somewhere else until the weather was better. He just wouldn’t listen. Before I knew it, he had booked me at Railay View Point Resort. I said that I wanted to stay in Ao Nang because of the weather and go to Railay tomorrow, but it was already too late. So I got put in a cab and taken to Ao Nang to catch a longtail. I asked if we could leave immediately (the clouds were much closer), but I waited on the beach for about 30 minutes. Just as we boarded the longtail (and note that you have to wade out and then climb over the side to get in), it started raining. They threw my big bag up front. I went forward to put the tarp over the bag, since the waves were kicking up, but they took the tarp off. By the time we got to Railay, it was pouring. Torrentially.
They tossed my big bag on shore and took off without telling me where to go. I asked around and found out that I was dropped off on the wrong beach. Yep. At high tide, the only way to get from west to east Railay is to either take a boat, or walk up and over a path that goes up , up, up, past some caves and then down, down, down. About 20 minutes when dragging a bag. Some of the path is not paved, which makes it all harder. After two wrong turns and meandering through a little village of locals, I finally found it. I was drenched from head to toe and both of my bags (a Timbuk2 bike messenger bag and my large duffle on wheels) were toally soaked. All of us were covered in sand. It sucked. But, I have to say, this place is beautiful. I’m in a gorgeous bungalow up the hill overlooking the bay and the swimming pool. There’s lots of good restaurants, just the right amount of bars, small markets and lots of rock climbing shops. It’s still touristy, but much less so than any place else I’ve been. We are surrounded by cliffs and caves and climbing is very popular here. In fact, they had a couple of cliffs illuminated last night for climbing. It was beautiful to watch from a balcony restaurant.
I stayed low yesterday, de-sanding, drying off, getting laundry done, catching up on the net, and napping. Today, I’m going to explore some caves and try to extend my stay another night (otherwise tonight would be my last here). Since I lost most of yesteray, I want another day to check everything out and decide where to go next.
By the way, worry not. The bombings in the “tourist” areas of Thailand were down in the deep south near Malaysia. It’s heavily Muslim down there and violence is not uncommon. I’m nowhere near that area. Even if I were, all bombings took place at 7/11s and I don’t go to those. Oh, and an added note – Railay is the first place I’ve been with no 7/11s. Finally!
Pictures later.
The Beach
The Beach was first a book and then a movie about a group of westerners who lived together on an uninhabited island in Thailand. It’s a bit like Lord of the Flies. Anyway, the movie was filmed on the beach at Maya Bay on Phi Phi Don island. It’s an exceptionally beautiful place. Since the movie, it became extremely popular among foreigners. Tourists used to hide in the jungle until the boats left to spend an illegal night on the beach and relive the essence of the movie, so the government turned the island into a national park and started regulating its use. There’s now a park ranger who is the sole inhabitant of the island. Very recently, one tour company out of Phi Phi Lay (little Cancun) got permission to take tourists camping there at overnight. In return, the company picks up litter on the beach every morning. Well last night, I went on the trip and spent the night on the island. No electricity, no contact with the outside world, and no one else but our party.
It rained a bit yesterday, so our group was very small. Besides myself, there were two Irishmen on holiday in Thailand for 5 weeks and two young British guys who just graduated from the University of Manchester and are spending 3 months in Asia before joining the real world. We also had 4 Thai “guides” who set up camp, cooked our food, transported us, etc.
When we arrived, we explored the island while the Thai got things ready for us. We meandered until the last longtail left with the last tourist. When the sun started setting, the camp was set up (they have a fairly large tent just off the beach behind some plants as well as a cooking area) and citronella torches were lighting the way. Beer was plentiful and dinner was soon ready. We had rice, Thai chicken, and sauteed veggies while we sat around in the tent talking. Soon after dinner, we were served buckets. They are mini buckets with hard alchoholic beverages that are sold back on Kho Phi Phi. We each were given some kind of strong stuff (probably Thai whiskey) and coke. Music was playing and we basically gabbed, hung out and had a good time. There was a lot of discussion about South Park, The Simpsons, Monty Python and Team America (I really have to check that one out). One of my new British friends played guitar for a while and it was really great fun. I have to say, it was pretty fun talking with English speakers at last and realizing how different we Americans speak.
Later he and the Irish guys went down to the beach while the rest of us fell asleep. Later, one of the Thais turned the music back on and I just couldn’t sleep with AC/DC blasting, so I eventually headed to the beach as well. I caught up with the guys (who had purchased additional buckets) and the views were just phenomenal. The stars were out bigger than you generally see in California and definitely bigger than you see in Europe. They were so bright that you could see the outline of the cliffs around the bay. Looking out the mouth of the bay, you could see lightening way off on the horizon. Occasionally it was bright enough to light up Maya Bay and there was some phosphorescence washing up on shore. Personally, I saw 4 shooting stars and was just in awe of my surroundings. I can’t tell you how amazing it was to be sitting there seeing all of this after I’ve seen pictures of this place for years. If only I had a camera that could capture the sky last night. Anyway, a decision was made to sleep on the beach, so the guys went back and grabbed sleeping bags and pillows. We slept right there on the sand.
A couple of hours later, I woke up and realized that the stars were now covered by clouds. This was not a good sign. I said something about rain, but no one responded and I went right back to sleep. Later, I woke to a very strong gust of wind. Looking up, I saw a huge black cloud coming and this sailor knows that we’re in for a squall and a hell of a lot of rain. I got everyone to wake up and we grabbed our stuff and left for the tent as quick as we could. Sure enough, within a minute or so of reaching the tent, we had a torrential downpour. The rain continued past dawn but we managed to stay dry.
I slept very well until something scrambled by my head and bumped me. We knew that there were monkeys on the island that sometimes get aggressive, but we also had some rat sightings earlier (the one I saw was huge. I just knew it was a rat. I sat up and stayed sitting for about half an hour until dawn. That son of a bitch was not touching my hair again! My alarm clock was set so that we could get up and watch the sunrise, but we scrubbed that idea due to rain. Anyway, we all meandered around that morning, swimming, exploring and eating until it was time to leave. By the way, you know it’s time to leave when the longtails start arriving – the place just isn’t the same.
During the day, Maya Bay is overrun by tourists and boats, but we just had the whole place to ourselves. It incredibly beautiful and we all had such a good time. When we got back to Phi Phi Lay, I very hastily boarded the ferry to Krabi after realizing that I’d have to wait around until 3:30 for my pre-paid ferry to Ao Nong. Sorry that I it all happened so fast that I didn’t get to say goodbye to the guys. I hope you found a room for the night.
I’m now at Reilay Bay and very knackered. But I have to say, camping at Maya Bay was absolutely brilliant! I will never forget it.
It rained a bit yesterday, so our group was very small. Besides myself, there were two Irishmen on holiday in Thailand for 5 weeks and two young British guys who just graduated from the University of Manchester and are spending 3 months in Asia before joining the real world. We also had 4 Thai “guides” who set up camp, cooked our food, transported us, etc.
When we arrived, we explored the island while the Thai got things ready for us. We meandered until the last longtail left with the last tourist. When the sun started setting, the camp was set up (they have a fairly large tent just off the beach behind some plants as well as a cooking area) and citronella torches were lighting the way. Beer was plentiful and dinner was soon ready. We had rice, Thai chicken, and sauteed veggies while we sat around in the tent talking. Soon after dinner, we were served buckets. They are mini buckets with hard alchoholic beverages that are sold back on Kho Phi Phi. We each were given some kind of strong stuff (probably Thai whiskey) and coke. Music was playing and we basically gabbed, hung out and had a good time. There was a lot of discussion about South Park, The Simpsons, Monty Python and Team America (I really have to check that one out). One of my new British friends played guitar for a while and it was really great fun. I have to say, it was pretty fun talking with English speakers at last and realizing how different we Americans speak.
Later he and the Irish guys went down to the beach while the rest of us fell asleep. Later, one of the Thais turned the music back on and I just couldn’t sleep with AC/DC blasting, so I eventually headed to the beach as well. I caught up with the guys (who had purchased additional buckets) and the views were just phenomenal. The stars were out bigger than you generally see in California and definitely bigger than you see in Europe. They were so bright that you could see the outline of the cliffs around the bay. Looking out the mouth of the bay, you could see lightening way off on the horizon. Occasionally it was bright enough to light up Maya Bay and there was some phosphorescence washing up on shore. Personally, I saw 4 shooting stars and was just in awe of my surroundings. I can’t tell you how amazing it was to be sitting there seeing all of this after I’ve seen pictures of this place for years. If only I had a camera that could capture the sky last night. Anyway, a decision was made to sleep on the beach, so the guys went back and grabbed sleeping bags and pillows. We slept right there on the sand.
A couple of hours later, I woke up and realized that the stars were now covered by clouds. This was not a good sign. I said something about rain, but no one responded and I went right back to sleep. Later, I woke to a very strong gust of wind. Looking up, I saw a huge black cloud coming and this sailor knows that we’re in for a squall and a hell of a lot of rain. I got everyone to wake up and we grabbed our stuff and left for the tent as quick as we could. Sure enough, within a minute or so of reaching the tent, we had a torrential downpour. The rain continued past dawn but we managed to stay dry.
I slept very well until something scrambled by my head and bumped me. We knew that there were monkeys on the island that sometimes get aggressive, but we also had some rat sightings earlier (the one I saw was huge. I just knew it was a rat. I sat up and stayed sitting for about half an hour until dawn. That son of a bitch was not touching my hair again! My alarm clock was set so that we could get up and watch the sunrise, but we scrubbed that idea due to rain. Anyway, we all meandered around that morning, swimming, exploring and eating until it was time to leave. By the way, you know it’s time to leave when the longtails start arriving – the place just isn’t the same.
During the day, Maya Bay is overrun by tourists and boats, but we just had the whole place to ourselves. It incredibly beautiful and we all had such a good time. When we got back to Phi Phi Lay, I very hastily boarded the ferry to Krabi after realizing that I’d have to wait around until 3:30 for my pre-paid ferry to Ao Nong. Sorry that I it all happened so fast that I didn’t get to say goodbye to the guys. I hope you found a room for the night.
I’m now at Reilay Bay and very knackered. But I have to say, camping at Maya Bay was absolutely brilliant! I will never forget it.
Friday, August 1, 2008
Downtime
Sometimes a girl just needs downtime, and that’s what I got all day today. I’ve been really stressed out these past few months and haven’t been sleeping well at all. Here at Phi Phi Relax Resort, I finally caught up.
I woke up this morning at whatever time it was and went for a swim before meandering over to the restaurant for breakfast. After eating, I swam some more and then scoped me out a hammock for the day. I stayed there until about 3:45 sleeping, reading and swimming. I finally went over to get an appetizer and then decided to take the little hike to the top of the island.
I thought that I had overheard one of the staff here telling someone that it was 30 minutes up and 30 minutes back. This was perfect timing for me to get up there, get back, get showered and get to my 6:00 massage. Well I started up the trail. It’s very steep – about as bad as Sabine’s driveway, but it keeps going on and on. After about 40 minutes I ran into some folks coming my direction. They said I had another 45 minutes to go to the top. This wasn’t going to do – I need my massage! So I headed down. It was an incredibly hot hike and I’ve never been so drenched in sweat in my life. It was even raining off my eyelashes. I guess I learned my lesson.
Anyway, I showered, had a pina colada (when you watch them pick the pineapples and coconuts minutes before making your drink, you just cannot resist) and then my massage. The message was insanely good. I'm pure jello! Now I’m going to have a bite and go to bed. I have a long 3 months ahead of me and this is exactly what I needed for a couple of days. But all good things must come to an end in order for other adventures to start.
Tomorrow, I go back to Daytona Beach Jr. to catch another boat. I’m going to do the camping trip on the beach at Maya Bay tomorrow night. The next morning, I’ll catch the ferry back to Ao Nang and hopefully end up with a room at Railay Bay. You most likely won’t be hearing from me until then. There’s nothing like being off the grid halfway around the world.
Cheers!
I woke up this morning at whatever time it was and went for a swim before meandering over to the restaurant for breakfast. After eating, I swam some more and then scoped me out a hammock for the day. I stayed there until about 3:45 sleeping, reading and swimming. I finally went over to get an appetizer and then decided to take the little hike to the top of the island.
I thought that I had overheard one of the staff here telling someone that it was 30 minutes up and 30 minutes back. This was perfect timing for me to get up there, get back, get showered and get to my 6:00 massage. Well I started up the trail. It’s very steep – about as bad as Sabine’s driveway, but it keeps going on and on. After about 40 minutes I ran into some folks coming my direction. They said I had another 45 minutes to go to the top. This wasn’t going to do – I need my massage! So I headed down. It was an incredibly hot hike and I’ve never been so drenched in sweat in my life. It was even raining off my eyelashes. I guess I learned my lesson.
Anyway, I showered, had a pina colada (when you watch them pick the pineapples and coconuts minutes before making your drink, you just cannot resist) and then my massage. The message was insanely good. I'm pure jello! Now I’m going to have a bite and go to bed. I have a long 3 months ahead of me and this is exactly what I needed for a couple of days. But all good things must come to an end in order for other adventures to start.
Tomorrow, I go back to Daytona Beach Jr. to catch another boat. I’m going to do the camping trip on the beach at Maya Bay tomorrow night. The next morning, I’ll catch the ferry back to Ao Nang and hopefully end up with a room at Railay Bay. You most likely won’t be hearing from me until then. There’s nothing like being off the grid halfway around the world.
Cheers!
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